The spiedie — Binghamton’s calling card.

Many Southern Tierians vehemently argue that the spiedie is the single greatest invention since the printing press, or perhaps, going even further back, the tampon. Whether or not they are correct is certainly debatable, but one thing is for sure — its positive influence on the everyday lives of the huddled masses is downright undeniable.

Although in the present day, the spiedie is usually served as a chicken sandwich, when it was brought to this region by Italian immigrants, lamb was the meat of choice. According to the book, “Spiedies, Etc.,” spiedies are named after a skewer called a spiedini, which shepherds used to roast lamb for centuries.

However, it is not the skewer that gives spiedies their distinctive taste, it’s the marinade that does. Unfortunately, though, the spiedie marinade’s exact ingredients remain a mystery, and all those that do know the secret to this intoxicating elixir have shrunken away from society, either afraid to publicly bare the weight of their knowledge or, perhaps, frightened of what the greater spiedie establishment might do if word got out that they know.

When asked about the ingredients, Luke Snyder, the manager of Lupo’s S&S Char Pit on West State Street, replied only, “oil, vinegar and a lot of spices … It’s a secret.” Liz Lupo of the Spiedie & Rib Pit on the Vestal Parkway, was even less descriptive, saying only, “I can’t tell you that.”

Steeped in mystique, it’s no wonder the Food Network has twice featured the spiedie in its programming.

Despite the legendary status of the spiedie, all is not peachy in la-la-land. The spiedie community is rife with controversy. According to advertisements for Sharkey’s Restaurant on Glenwood Avenue, Peter Sharak, the father of Sharkey’s current owner, Larry, was the first person to introduce spiedies to the Southern Tier. However, as Ms. Lupo notes, while Sharkey’s opened around the middle of the 20th century, Augustine “Augie” Iacovelli is the earliest known purveyor of spiedie goodness, having served spiedies at his restaurant, Augie’s, in the 1930s.

While the world of spiedies has had its scandals, some have apparently been settled. As Spiedie & Rib Pit and Lupo’s battle for the affection of Broomers everywhere, it could seem a little bit odd that members of the Lupo family own each Spiedie & Rib Pit. Liz Lupo explained that, while some family members did break away to start Spiedie & Rib Pit and its franchises, any hostilities from the break were abandoned “a long, long time ago.”