The Loft at 99 is open and airy, with a modern design: brick walls featuring works by local artists and a bar highlighted by exposed beams.
Not only is the restaurant visually appealing, but it’s also reflective of the owners’ approach to food: taking classic techniques and updating them with a fresh twist.
Co-owners and brothers Kyle and Michael Bunker, who attended The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York and New England Culinary Institute respectively, are both classically trained in French cooking. Originally from the Binghamton area, the Bunkers decided to bring their knowledge of cooking back to the city’s up-and-coming restaurant scene.
“There is a new growth happening Downtown, a renaissance of sorts,” Kyle said. “We want people outside who have forgotten about Downtown to come and experience what is happening.”
The Bunkers’ goal was to open an intimate, 50-to-60-seat restaurant that showcases a smaller menu, allowing them to perfect their dishes while using quality products.
In line with their menu, the Restaurant Week options are limited, but carefully selected and comprised of dishes from regular menu items and specials.
“Sometimes, we’ve been craving something, so we throw that on the menu,” Kyle said. “It will be around for ten days, and we can enjoy it for ourselves.”
Loft’s take on poutine, a popular dish in Quebec, Canada, consisted of house-made fries, a sausage gravy and cheese curds. The combination of crispy fries with the creamy sausage gravy created a balanced appetizer that was full of flavor.
Inspired by the changing seasons, Loft’s butternut squash soup was light but satisfying. The dish — which will hopefully make an appearance on their fall/winter menu — wasn’t overpoweringly sweet, and the cimicci olive oil added just enough salt.
The appetizer portions were large enough to be an entrée, so make sure to ask for a to-go container so you have room for the other courses.
The Loft at 99 changes their menu twice a year, and Restaurant Week falls at a perfect time for them to test out dishes before they unveil new selections.
“Restaurant Week allows us to sample things that have been floating around in our heads and get some feedback from customers,” Kyle said. “We want to offer something a little different from the regular dinner menu, and we want to be a little creative.”
The options for the main course were a pasta dish, risotto or a Loft signature burger. The pasta was orecchiette, topped with a sausage crumble, broccoli rabe and a fennel lemon dust. The pasta was tender, and the sausage added a hint of spice and salt to round out a light but filling entrée.
The risotto had a basil puree, charred corn, blistered cherry tomatoes and parmesan cheese. The dish was creamy, well-cooked and complemented by the sweet burst of tomato between bites. It was, however, a heavy dish, and with the cream in both the soup and poutine appetizers, it became a little overwhelming.
The desserts were unique in construction, taste and presentation. A chocolate peanut butter mousse took the form of a savory pâté and was drizzled with molten chocolate sauce.
A new addition, the l’aveggio cold brew affogato, an Italian dessert that usually includes hot espresso poured over vanilla ice cream, was a creative and modern take on a classic. The cold brew coffee allowed the ice cream to remain cold, and the less acidic flavor of the cold brew was a delicious complement to the meal’s sweet ending.
The Loft at 99 is located on 99 Court St.